One of the more unsavoury aspects of Belem are the large, often clogged and malodorous gutters. They tend to be deep as the tarmac has been piled up layer upon layer on the old cobbles. Fallen mangoes roll in and, unfortunately, provide a ready source of food for what we call 'our furry friends'. We see about three or four large rats every evening, often loping across our path on the pavement or scurrying under parked cars a very few feet from the table where we may be eating! Last night I tracked one getting close and was ready to throw something as a last line of defence. Truth be told they are afraid of humans but Belem's variety seem quite confident!