Day 4: Las Alpujarras

Today was our real first day of exploring.

As I was quite anxious to see rural Spain, I suggested we spent the day in "Las Alpujarras". It was relatively close to get to even if it meant a lot of driving in the mountains. The region of mountain villages known as Las Alpujarras clings to the southern flanks of the Sierra Nevada, cloven by deep, sheltered valleys and gorges which run down towards the Mediterranean. The Alpujarra, as it is popularly known, in the singular, is famous throughout Spain because of its unique mini-ecology. Its terraced farmlands are constantly watered by the melting snow from above, constituting a high-altitude oasis of greenery which stands in dramatic contrast to the arid foothills below - the average altitude is 4,000 feet above sea level. Remember that we were starting from sea level!

The cultural interest of the region lies in its fifty-odd villages, which were the last stronghold of the Spanish Muslims, or Moors. Soon after the Castilians took Granada in 1492, all the city´s Moors were forced to convert to Christianity. Those who refused took to the hills, settling in this remote, inaccessible area.

Our first stop was Velez de Benaudalla. Situated at the foot of the Sierra de Lugar mountain, this little town of nearly 3,000 people is well placed - just ten minutes from the coast, 40 minutes from Granada city and nestled within the mountains which begin the Sierra Nevada range. Historically Vélez De Benaudalla first came to prominence under the Moors who recognised its position on the banks of the River Guadelfeo, at the base of the Sierra de Lújar, as ideal for agriculture owing to the abundant waters of the river and fertile lands. La Iglesia del Rosario is at the center of the main square in town.

Next came Pampaneira, one of a trio of popular and picturesque whitewashed villages. Pampaneira - like its neighbours Bubión and Capileira - hugs the steep slopes of a lush river gorge, the Barranco de Poqueira, in the Poqueira Valley. The picture above shows one of its many wonderful little streets, none of which are neither straight nor leveled.

Because I was determined to make it to Trevélez before the end of the day with enough daytime to get back "home", we had to forgo Bubión and Capileira since they represented a detour from the road to Trevélez. Most well-known for its mouth-watering cured ham, jamón serrano, the village of Trevélez is the highest in mainland Spain, at 1,476m and the highest year-round inhabited village in Europe. Its clear mountain air is ideal for drying the sweet-tasting ham, which has its own Denominación de Origen.

We also had decided to finish this long day in the spas of the Balneario de Lanjarón. Luckily, we arrived there shortly before closing time and were able to indulge ourselves in its spa waters, celebrated for centuries for their curative properties and are considered to be some of the best in the country. Overlooking the town of Lanjarón is a rocky outcrop capped by a ruined Moorish castle. Legend has it that the Moorish ruler of Lanjarón threw himself from the castle tower, rather than surrender, when he realized that the Christian army, led by the Catholic King Fernando, was going to be victorious.

It was a long day but everyone adored it, even Carla who had problems with the roads.

Click here, for more pictures of the Alpujarra's landscapes and roads.

Sorry about this long blip entry, but there was a lot to "show and tell".