Notwithstanding the significance of yesterday, I resolved to look forward for a moment, not back, and decided it was time to "get wet". Easily said and easily done because, after a glorious sunny breakfast, the heavens opened and the rest of the day was grey damp and ... wet.

But I introduced the beach to the board and the board to the water. And my head to the sand (a 'faceplant' in surf parlance as I understand it). No I didn't stand up. In all a disappointing start.

BUT, as an experience - very memorable. The sight of seeing the spray off the top off a crashing wave heading towards the beach from the seaward side of it is both impressive and scary.

And remember this? That could have been me today. I wonder if it was the same one.