I Do Wish I Was More of a Water Person

Being out there just looks spectacular. I did try surfing a couple times in calmer waters, but I got seasick from the up and down movement of the board. I sure didn't anticipate that. Never got to the standing up part, or even kneeling. Just hanging on, going up and down, Up and dowN. Urp. These guys don't look like they have that problem. 
The extra is a guy holding up a waterproof camera, shooting the action from up close. It was a comedy watching him get in the water. His buddy showed him a sheer drop from the cliff to the surf and kept saying, "Trust me. Trust me." Myself, I'd never in all these years seen anyone descend that face. I hung around to see what would happen, and I thought well if the guy doesnt make it I'll feel bad for not saying anything, but they didn't look like people who would listen to an old lady anyway. The buddy says okay you put your right leg in that slot. Your Right leg. RIGHT LEG. You're moving your left leg. Move the other one. I didn't know whether to laugh or dial 911. The guy with the camera was kinda paralyzed at this point, but the next time I looked he was in the water with his rig and waiting for a Big One.
All that was before breakfast, and then I went to knitting. Came home and raked some leaves, made dinner, and here I am, still thinking about those two clowns on the cliff.