J appears on the rooftop as I'm having my second coffee. 
I just thought I'd stay an extra day, he says, cancelled my ticket so I could have another aloo tikki Chaat from that place last night. And maybe a couple more sweets. 
Down through the fort for a breakfast which was accompanied by a parade to celebrate Ram's birthday, the splendour of the avatars undeniable and bringing along a healthy dose of chaos, traffic jams and general celebratory disarray.
It's a place that gets under the skin but it's not always easy to open up to it, that generalised European reserve challenged on a daily basis here. Something about india which encourages you to accept what's going on because it's going on, it's an oddly choreographed place but the dance, in those moments rhythms and mood converge, the dance is hypnotic. 


And after the madness and the parade have vanished into the morning air, routines are followed. The afternoon bringing another attempt at finding a sunset point, being redirected by babaji in the main square. 
His route winds through further astonishing havelis and eventually leads onto a hillside which offers a glimpse of the triangular nature of the fort.


It's pretty spectacular, the slow changing tones of the stone rising from the town below and then the illuminated night comes in: the golden city rising in splendour above the plain, the dusty sun sinking towards the desert beyond. 
And then, night come down, arrays of lights are turned on illuminating the alien glory of the past rising against the darkening desert which surrounds.