The ascent of Moss Pass

I have a preference for early starts, particularly when the weather is likely to pack up later in the day. Today that worked out nicely. We were steadily climbing by 8am.

It was magnificent, absolutely perfect. We started in sun. Two hours later we were surprised to reach the top of the pass. Not bad considering we knew others younger and possibly fitter had done it in the same time. I led well and there were no problems.

At the top of the pass where was hardly a breeze. Sun had changed to high cloud and really it was surprisingly pleasant for an alpine environment where it is often blowing and cold.

After food, the requisite photos and for some of us, a good scamper up the surrounding rock walls, it was time to tackle what I knew would be the more difficult part of the day.

My sketchy memory, studying the map and reading accounts all pointed to a very steep and unforgiving descent into the upper D'Urville valley. I wasn't wrong.

Four hours later we reached the valley floor. About half an hour before we reached the bushline, valley cloud drifted in and the pass behind us was now obscured. The day felt cool and damp. I hoped we wouldn't be in drizzle as we entered the bush and some of the steepest terrain we'd encounter. It held off but it was dark and dim deep in the narrow depths where sun seldom enters.

A fixed rope helped us negotiate one section. We made do with roots and branches in other places but there was no room for error or slipping. We were mostly quiet and focused on descending safely. Our relief was palpable as the gradient eased. In comparison it felt like a walk in the park.

Sun came and went and it was pleasantly warm. We reached the swing bridge and with a partially numb left fore foot, I made for the hut making good time on weary legs. Best I give my feet a chance to recover without boots.

The old Ella hut has been renamed George Lyon hut, in memory of the first superintendent of the Nelson Lakes National Park. It was built in the early '70s and is kept to reflect the time. That is a blessing and a curse to hut users.

The hut has a large enclosed porch with two rooms leading off it. One has the pot belly fire but is dim and dark. The other has some perspex in the roof and is lighter, but there is no fire.

Within 15 minutes of everyone arriving at the hut, it poured with rain. It was all over within 10 minutes. But the cloud thickened and the air felt different. 

As I drifted off to sleep I wondered what the weather would do over night.