Udaipur

Still feeling a little affected by the bout of DB I've had I had a plain and simple breakfafst of toast and jam and chai masala. I think I've been very fortunate as my symptoms have only really affected me for about 12 hours and they haven't really been too bad. 2 others in the group went down with some vomitting last night . . . . India is taking its toll!

Our activities today began with a short walk up to the City Palace which is virtually next door to our hotel. By the time we arrived a bit after 9.00am the temperature was beginning to rise and it wasn't long before I was sweating and sticky. The Palace itself was another impressive piece of Indian history with a mixture of museum artefacts, 400-year-old architecture and Indian artwork. The views from the top of the City Palace were stunning - views across the entire city and over to the mountains which create a beautiful backdrop to the city. Today's guide was very good - possibly our best yet. He added more than a touch of colour to his stories and had a very playful and somewhat ironic sense of humour which appealed to me.

A quick cafe frappe along the street outside the Palace before heading back to the hotel for a short recovery and cool down. The next activity was a cooking class. Up to this point the cooking classes we've done have been interesting but we haven't had a chance to do anything ourselves. This one was different . . . . . he explained the processes and measured out the Ingredients (when I say 'measured' he didn't actually measure anything . . . . . a pinch here, a shake there and that was it!) then he talked us through the process of cooking whichever dish it was that we were doing. One thing I've learned is that Indian cuisine is nothing if not simple - the bulk of the work appears to be in the preparation. I may think differently after after I get home and try it for myself!

I took some time out in the afternoon to relax before tkaing the plunge and going for a walk/shopping expedition on my own. My biggest fear was not being able to find my way back to the hotel - my sense of direction has been lousy on this trip!

It wasn't long (about 30 paces I think) before a young man approached me and began asking the ususal questions "Where are you from? What's your name?"I made the mistake of engaging in some chatter with him and telling him what I was doing. He instantly appointed himself as my personal guide.

"No charge madam. I show you lakeside for free. This is my home. I know it well. This is my house here. Here - here is my mother. You take picture of her . . . "

The woman inside the doorway waved him away and shuffled uneasily. I said "No - no picture." but he kept pushing. "I'm going to have to be a bit more assertive here" I thought as I walked away. He tried to get me to look at 'his' shop - scarves, skirts, pashminas. I said no and walked to a nearby shoe shop. The vendor came to me and to my 'guide's' credit, he didn't try to follow me in, but when I did step back outside, there he was again. I headed for a bookshop. He told me "No - look here at these pashmina" but I continued into the bookstore. It was full of texts on and about India: Indian culture, Indian travel, Indian people, Indian places, Indian religion . . . . but there was more. I asked if he had a copy of the book that was recommended to me before I began this trip - "Shantaram". It's a story about Australian criminal who escapes prison and flees to Mumbai where he disappears into the mele of Mumbai life. I'm keen to read it but when he took the book from the shelf and I saw what a great tome it was, I knew it wasn't a book I'd be carrying in my hand-luggage to read on the flight back home!

"Try this one" he said, pulling down a copy of "The White Tiger" by Aravind Adiga. There was something very sincere about this man - not pushy, not demanding, he listened to what I was asking instead of grasping at the potential to make a sale. I walked out with the book, which he tells me I will read in one sitting! What a lovely, helpful and charming man.

Again, when when I did step back outside, there was my unofficial guide again. I walked past him, this time heading to a shop displaying some fine artwork.


"Here. Come and look at my shop. Very fine pictures here. Come. Just look. Please - just look."

By this stage - and much as I did want to look at the artwork - I took the bull by the horns, said no and strode away towards the lakeside. He didn't follow.

At the lakeside 3 other guys tried the same (although less aggressive) chat lines. Tourist fishing must be a national past-time in these parts, although I did also chat to some very nice guys who were on the lakeside also taking pictures and who were much more restained and politely inquisitive.

On the way back I went back to the art shop and, after making a very cautious enquiry about some items he had on display, was invited inside to have a closer look.

"Was that man who I was with before your son?" I asked.

"No, no, no - he just a guy who thinks all these shops are his."

The rest of my time in his shop - about an hour - was fascinating. He showed me lots of his work, explained the different meanings to some of his pieces, told me about his life as a painter. At one point the local chai waller came in and gave him a glass of chai. Seeing me there too he asked if I'd like a glass. He poured it then left. The artist explained that he keeps the local vendors supplied with chai each day. About 10 minutes later he returned and collected his glasses and left. I have no idea how he makes a living as no money was exchanged - maybe he's just paying it forward?

These last 3 encounters have been a breath of fresh air to me. They've helped me to see a much more mellow and earthy sort of Indian character, one that I feel more comfortable with - one that is a real contrast to many of the charcters I've met so far. How refreshing.