Island curl

I received a phone call this morning to tell me that there were sizeable waves coming in as ten wave sets, but apparently nobody was keen to paddle out because of the size. I immediately packed my 6'10" shortboard (my big wave board) and located a break that was going-off. The offshore wind was blowing up to 30 knots and the waves were big but I was the only one out the back. Lots of people lined the cliffs to watch as I waited for the biggest waves in the sets. I got some good rides. :o)

My wife chose the above photo for today's blip, my alternative blip photo is here.

Right, I'm off to soak all my bruises in a hot bath.