Meandered through cadmium green rice paddies; every so often the road crowded with parades of colourfully clad villagers on their way to make offerings to the Gods.

Visited elephant sanctuary for rescued Sumatran elephants. I am not one for zoos; these elephants are lovingly treated and the bond between keeper and elephant is tangible. Adila took us for a jungle ride. Cacti spikey hairs prickling my toes. Elephants are my favourite non domestic animal, but I'm embarrassed to admit that riding Adila was as terrifying as my other petty fears of flying in bouncy skies, MRI tunnel journeys, and spiders (big fat coward am i). Perhaps it was because I had images of rearing, bucking unpredictability at the Bukit Timah Saddle Club still fresh in my mind. However, once on terra firma it was blissful and there was no fear as Adila's trunk entwined me. Elephants all-observing eyes are disconcertingly circular, hadn't been aware of that before.

Then up and up, dodging mopeds carrying entire families, for a delicious Indonesian lunch opposite the looming volcanoes of Batur and Agung. Magnificent views.

At the Luwak cat poo coffee plantation I was scrutinizing a substantial spider's web unaware that my hair was a mm from being entangled in the artist's second home in which she was enormously resident.

The Balinese are a blur of smiles and friendliness.

Some women are able to carry 70kg on their heads ...