Beneath Biscay

By Douglian

Belles on Sunday

This morning's good intention of going for a bike ride fell by the wayside. By the time I was ready it was past midday, by which time there are too many pedestrians to dodge along my route.

So I decided to watch the formula one grand prix. However before it started I heard what sounded like the clanging of livestock bells. I couldn't see anything out of the window, so camera in hand I went out to track them down.

It turned out to be a folklore group of Guirros y Madamas from Llamas de la Ribera in Leon, the province to the south of Asturias. They were visiting Gijon to take part in the Atlantic Arc festival. Unfortunately I had missed their display and they were walking back to be picked up by their coach.

The principal event for Guirros y Madamas takes place in their hometown during their festival of Antruejo, preceding lent (at the same time as the Antroxu festival in Asturias). The photo shows the Madamas, women in traditional costume. The men, Guirros, shown here are not wearing their colourful headresses although they are wearing their leather belts to which the bells are attached. The full costume and cast of characters can be seen in this video.

There are various other characters, including a sort of 'obby 'orse, bull, devil and various mock bishops and clergy.

I was curious about the elaborate necklaces that the Madamas were wearing. I asked whether the costumes had anything to do with the Maragato people from the nearby Astorga district of Leon, whose necklaces I have seen in a museum. They said not, although there are clearly similarities as you can see in this blog about Maragatos.

Atfer this I came across a very noisy but entrancing group of drummers and spade hammerers (using spades and hoes, without handles, as percussion instuments) visiting for the festival from Ourense province in Galicia. I didn't need formula 1 for my dose of noise today.

After that I wandered over to a nearby Protuguese craft and produce fair. Having just come back from holiday in Portugal this was a pleasant reminder. I had a large glass of chilled white vinho verde and bought a couple of pasteis de nata cakes, a bit like custard tarts.

All this and I was still able to get home in time to see the last few laps of the grand prix.

Maybe an afternoon bike ride is in order, it's such a beautifuil day.

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