Helena Handbasket

By Tivoli

The dark of the moon

The inhabited islands of the North Sporades are Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonnisos. Skiathos is best known for its beaches, bars, parties and water-sports. Alonnisos is known for its marine park, sanctuary for monk seals alongside other sea-dwelling creatures. Skopelos falls neatly between the two. The North Sporades islands fall under the prefecture of Magnisia, who's capital city is Volos, ancient home of Jason and the Argonauts and located at the foot of Mount Pilio, home of the centaurs. Magnisia is one of four prefectures that make up Thessaly, Greece's largest agricultural region. The port of Volos is Greece's third largest port after Pireaus and Thessaloniki and is Thessaly's only outlet to the sea. The port is located at the innermost point of the Pagasitic gulf.
Commercial fishing is not permitted in the waters of the marine park surrounding Alonnisos and is relatively fruitless in the waters surrounding Skiathos because of all the hilarity and splashing about in the shallows.
Skopelos island boasts four harbours where locals keep their little private fishing boats and to the best of my knowledge the port of Glossa is home to the only commercial fishing vessel based on the island. I can only presume that fishing here is fairly productive because the fish are unaware that they are outside the protective zone around Alonnisos but yet have not been frightened away by the brouhaha surrounding Skiathos.
This shot is the view from our house of night fishing for sardines and anchovies (small fry / whitebait) just outside the port of Glossa.
These small fish rise at night to feed on the surface, they are guided by the light of the moon. The fishermen fool them during the dark phase of the moon by placing bright floating lights on the surface of the water. Each large boat carries many floating lights and tows a small motorboat. Before dusk the large boats circle, placing their lights in the water. After dark the smaller boats visit each light in turn and scoop the fish from the surface of the water in nets, returning their catch to the large boats to continue their work throughout the night. I saw five large boats operating here before it became too dark to see whether they were joined by more. The fishing fleet has come from Volos and the journey in each direction will have taken three to four hours, maybe more.
The village of Glossa is the second largest community on the island of Skopelos with a population of approximately 900. There is one fish restaurant.
The city of Volos has a population of 145,000 and its waterfront is lined with fish restaurants.
Some locals regard it as an affront for this vast fleet to appear midsummer and scoop up all the fish in 'our' waters. Perhaps some Thessalians regard it as an affront that the Skopeliti source their foodstuffs and wines from the vast plains of Thessaly.
Perhaps we shouldn't have Brie and Camembert in our supermarkets and perhaps you shouldn't have Greek yoghurt in yours. Tribalism within a single prefecture! Where will it all end??

It looks just as I imagine Crete would look from space at night.

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