WhatADifferenceADayMakes

By Veronica

Silvery springs

Alternative view here. And Day 1 here if you missed it.

I was quite surprised to wake up and find it was already light, yet there was little to no sound of other walkers getting up. We were eating breakfast just after seven, in an almost deserted dining room. Then we set off on a long loop back to the car, crossing the valley and walking along the other side. "It's all downhill today," S assured us as we eased our aching legs into reluctant movement. They were soon put to further test as parts of the "all downhill" involved crossing stretches of heaped-up rocks, requiring much concentration to figure out where to put your feet. At one point I was briefly reduced to crawling. Still, once again the hardest parts were near the beginning when we were still feeling relatively fit. 

At one point I stepped aside to let three women past, belatedly recognising them as the three Catalans who'd shared our dormitory and were just getting up when we left. "Go on, I'm very slow," I told them. "That's OK, we're going slowly too". Within five minutes they were mere dots on the horizon. They did have youth on their side though.

By 11 o' clock we'd reached the first of the Lacs de Fontargente (lakes of the silvery spring). These are very pretty typical Pyrenean lakes. The first one is the largest, so we sat down for a rest and some refreshments. I'd brought my swimming costume, but after soaking my feet in the shallows for five minutes, they were numb for the next half hour. So I abandoned that plan.  We made a small detour to look at the other lakes (blip) before continuing the downhill scramble. Although the morning had been relatively cool, it was very hot indeed by now ... after more rock-hopping we stopped for lunch by a tumbling stream further on, and got through litres of water.

The last 3 km were down a road with no shade, so we were glad to see the dam ahead and get back to the car. Since we'd estimated that it was well over 30C, we were somewhat surprised that the car told us it was only 27. Nevertheless a stop in Mirepoix for delicious sheep's milk ice cream followed by chilled drinks was thoroughly warranted.

It was about seven by the time we got home -- some cold beer and a mad rush for the shower ensued. Once we were all clean and refreshed, a very welcome apero of chilled white wine with pan con tomate and jamón, followed by a hastily thrown together duck stir-fry and a tart I'd bought in Mirepoix, then bed.

Statistics for Jamjar
Day 1: 6.5 km, 750 m up, 90 m down, 4 1/2 hours
Day 2: 11.7 km,  150 m up,  900 m down, 6 hours
Full route here.

Yes, we are slow! But I think I can safely say that's the most climbing I've ever done in a day. And as for the accumulated two days, well, I'm impressed :)

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