A Mystery that passeth my understanding

I can understand Surfing in Hawaii or California, but Scarborough North Bay in December when the air temperature is just above Freezing and the water feels cold enough to freeze the proverbials off a Brass monkey?
And all to ride so unimpressive a wave as this little ripple?
He must have travelled less than thirty feet before going under.
Still it is Fun to photograph them!
Lets say there is a line between raw naked courage and being simply a bit Daft!