El Camino

By AndrewForbes

These warm, dry roasted peanuts were sold to us by an elderly man walking the narrow terraces of the famous Café Hafa that clings to a precipitous cliff over looking Tanger bay.

He passed our small stone tiled table as we relaxed with glasses of piping-hot sweet mint tea. After selling some peanuts to some youngsters jamming on a guitar at the table beside us, the vendor generously gave me a handful. It was a smart sales move, as they were so tasty I bought a ration for 6 dirham - served on a plate swiftly fashioned from a piece of paper. The gentleman was so gracious and gentle.

Funny as this morning I woke up feeling grateful for so much. Although Morocco is modernising at a pace, there doesn't appear to be any safety net for the vulnerable. Walking along the streets yesterday was a striking reminder of how fortunate most of us are in Europe.

I have to say a few words about lunch, enjoyed at Casa d'Italia. This authentic Italian is in the stunning
Palais de Mouley Hafid, probably one of the most interesting Sultan palaces in the city - with a beautiful courtyard garden and huge ornate arabic state rooms complete with incredible 1920s chandeliers.

The food is home cooked, and the ambience is really special; the surreal combination of classic Italian dishes served by waiters in black tie, on a 1950s terrace with fab retro furniture, surrounded by Islamatic craftsmanship and exotic palms. It's a must!

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