Altit Fort

Another lovely sunny day. We left our Eagle’s Nest perched at 9500 ft and headed down the steep hairpin bends to reach Altit Fort, 1100 years old. It is built on the rock face with a long drop down to the Hunza River. The enemies, from Nagar over the river were unlikely to capture the fort. It had been beautifully restored.

We boarded the bus to head for Gilgit, stopping for lunch at a cafe with a view up the glacier to Rakaposhi. The veggie lunch was very tasty sag aloo with paratha. The KKH followed the river, sometimes through narrow gorges where rockfalls had to be skirted, and at other in more open areas which had been cultivated on every available spot. As we left Hunza we entered Gilgit area, no longer the liberal Ishmael religion, but now very conservative Shai. This meant very few women were to be seen as we drove through villages. Those we saw wore bright clothes but only their eyes were visible. Eventually we drove through Gilgit to see an old Buddhist carving on a rock, dating from before the area converted to Islam. We have left the beautiful Karakoram and are now in the Hindu Kush range of mountains.

Then we drove back to the town to see the British cemetery. There were about 20 graves, some climbers from 1980s, soldiers, a political agent from the Great Game, and a couple (Ian and Mary Gilchrist) who tried to cross the river, got swept away, and all that was left was the man’s wooden leg. Then a wander through the market which wasn’t that pleasant as there was a danger of being mowed down by young men on motorbikes.

Eventually about 4.30 we reached our hotel. There was extreme security at the gate - road blocks with spikes and military personnel with guns. It is very luxurious. And WiFi works!

Tonight we have to pack our rucksacks with the necessities for our 3 day trek near Nanga Parbat on the western end of the Himalayan Range. The forecast is rain.

Still backblipping - now on Dal Lake on a houseboat in Kashmir.