Kampot

I thought it was important to bring Adam to Kampot as I always enjoyed coming here, especially to unwind on weekends from Phnom Penh. It's changed very noticeably in the two years since I was last here, with more tourists, more cars, more river garbage, more paved roads, more establishments, more gaudily lit 'party boats' and a slow creep of restaurants and shops along the main tentacles out of the town.

It still retains much smaller town charm with relaxing cafés where disabled people are the employees, a desserterie (if that's not a word it should be) where you can snaffle a slice of lemon meringue, and tranquil guesthouses along the riverbanks (such as where I have always liked to stay at Les Manguiers - 'the mango trees').

My friend Niki is also in town enjoying a few days' break with her boyfriend Chhun. We met for a blueberry smoothie in the afternoon in a bar overlooking the languid river, and later had the second round of a long overdue catch-up over copious dumplings, all for a small handful of dollars.

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