Mondragón Palace, Ronda

Today we focused our exploration on Ronda itself, starting with the impressive bullring, recognised as one of the oldest (1785) in Spain and one of the most monumental. The architect, Martín de Aldehuela, also designed the famous bridge, called the New Bridge, that crosses the gorge. Whatever one feels about bullfighting this building cannot be ignored - it has the feel of a beautifully preserved and rather elegant cloister. It also houses a great collection of Goyesque costumes - beautiful fabrics that I'd love to wear - (and an armoury which we skipped).

Our next stop was the 14th century Moorish Mondragón Palace, with its beautiful series of courtyards and gardens decorated with original tiling and decorated ceilings, like a miniature Alhambra complex. The views from the terraces overhanging the cliffs were stunning and reminded us that we must find the path to venture down into the gorge.

The route down starts in the Plaza de María Auxiliadora where we had had our first Ronda blipmeet (at the Bar Campillo). It was easy to scamper down the steps and then into more rugged terrain, looking up and stopping from time to time to admire the views across to the mountains of the massif of Libar. There was a choice of paths as we dropped down, and rather than take the conventional path (well, I was with Arachne) we summoned up courage and scrambled under the gorge and then through to the other side on an extremely precipitous path, the thought of which is making me quake as I write. One part of this path is called the Cuesta del Cachondeo, the Slope of Fun, because of its many twists and turns, I don't think it could have been this bit. We were rewarded by great views and a spectacular sense of the height of the gorge.

Back uphill (slightly slower progress), we headed to the Casa de los Martos for afternoon tea: it has splendid gardens overlooking the edge of the cliffs and is a lovely, slightly eccentric, place to relax.

Later in the day we were lured into the Peinado Museum with promises of Picasso, sadly only three...

In the evening we ate at De-Locos Tapas: situated by one of the 13th century city gates this tapas bar came recommended by both Andrew and the owner of our little hotel. The food was exquisite - intense flavours - and excellent wine - perfect. I have just looked at their Christmas menu and am thinking it would be worth a special trip to Ronda... yes, the food was that good!