Darkness at 2pm

Time to think about legging it west to get to Melbourne and get some miles in, in case the Highway was closed again (it had opened by morning). A great drive for undulating miles of forest on the single lane highway till we reached Cann River for coffee and pies. I still haven’t got to grips with Aussie cuisine but a couple of points (1) their coffee is excellent, everywhere (2) their pies are too good to miss.
Onward through East Gippy with an occasional wiff of smoke in the air; nothing to do with old hippies. And then coming out of Bairnsdale the sky started getting darker and darker until you needed dipped headlights. Quite dramatic, it must be said. I stopped to take some photos and the heavens opened - my white t-shirt ended up stained with ash.
So, we detoured south and the sun came out and eventually we came to Port Albert, a real end of the road place, with boats, gravel roads and a closed pub. But the general store sold beer and there was a fish and chip shop right at the wharf. Sunset found us sitting out eating chips and really delicious flathead tails, whatever they are, looking at black swans puddling their way along the estuary. Though maybe they’d just been caught in the rain too.