Companheiro

This cute creature was chilling next to a bucket in the bathroom as I performed my evening ablutions. It’s been a pleasant day, with some work, a nice long walk to the closest village for a Fanta and some biscuits, and a cooling bathe in the river. There are some spots where the water pools a little, but runs fast enough to feel like a free hydrotherapy session.

As I disappeared late afternoon up the hill to reach the faintest fringes of mobile internet, Contardo the community officer for the Reserve, assumed I was going to whisper sweet nothings down the phone. ‘Já tens enamorada lá em Maputo?’ Do you have a lover there in Maputo? Negative, but I’m working on it.

I was very moved by a moment before dinner. Lionel the Chief Park Warden wanted to organise the ranger team together for a surprise birthday celebration for one of the camp staff, Zachias, who turned 28 today. He has worked at the Reserve for about ten years after being orphaned and given a job as a cook and camp hand, which he performs diligently and well. I’ve not seen him be mistreated but as everywhere it’s clear there’s a hierarchy and he has the most humble, deferential manner. Lionel had organised a cake and fizzy drinks supply during the latest restocking in the provincial capital. When the moment came to surprise Zachias with a rendition of happy birthday (note to self: must learn Portuguese version) it was incredibly touching. He found it unthinkable that he could be the focus of this mini-celebration, having never eaten cake on his birthday, and it took the length of the song for him to realise it was directed at him. Lionel said some kind words about the importance of treating each other like family, especially when stationed at a remote place like Chimanimani. I hope Zachias takes positive memories from it, instead of a feeling of awkwardness at the temporary flipping of the status quo. Everyone deserves a cube of cake and cup of fizzy pop on their birthday, especially if they’ve had to wait 28 years for their first.