Bravo . . . !

Well, as you can imagine, this one pretty much chose itself!  He had a long ride, thru a variety of water.   A gorgeous day!   Some backwash, especially on the right side.  And some long waves forming across two-thirds of the beach.  The gentle slope encouraged the waves to run up the beach, still some scallops giving higher knolls.   A lot of the waves broke rather steeply, take a look at the extras:

1.   Someone else's orange board riding in without 'em.

2.   His hair matches the water!  He was riding into the beach.

3.   This is one of those steep waves, straight down, and this long board surfer was rolling off his board to put it above him for protection.

In a calm stretch, one bodysurfer was squeezing water thru his hand whilst waiting, making columns of water dance.

Walked past one local guy shooting from underneath the shade of one of the few trees by the road.   I said, "you must have a really long lens to be shooting from this far back."   He said 'yeh, but I'm here 'cause of the shade.  It's too hot out there."  I said . . .  "that's why I'm leaving  . . .   "

Happy Mothers' Day!


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