The weight of the ocean on his shoulders . . . . wonder if he chose his trunks in the spirit of the day . . .?
This being a holiday here (Memorial Day) - and a gorgeous day - and everyone wanting to be at the beach kind of day - parking was full up by the time I got here around 8AM. Canopies and coolers, kids, dogs, families and friends were having fun. Parked in the inner parking lot, so got a different view of the beach, but again today, there was more than one favoured spot, depending on your style. Loved his style and athleticism - you can see one of his dismounts in the extras. He launched himself up, off the board and over the wave - look Ma, I can do it with my hands behind my back!! And the second extra (different guy playing in the shorebreak), if you can make it out, he's looking back up over his shoulder as the wave closes over him, crouched down to get under it.
The ceremonies today are, of course, victims of the COVID-19 pandemic, altho the cemeteries are as moving as ever. Took flowers and visited loved ones, and thought about lives and life.
Stay well, find something to make you smile, and take care, everyone!!