Waiting for the perfect wave
There’s an art to catching a wave. You don’t want to wast your time on an OK wave when there might be a great wave coming next. But you don’t want to set your standards so high that nothing makes the grade. And you’ve got to decide early enough so that you are already travelling when it arrives.
Aden and I are the best. We always catch the best waves and we don’t waste any energy on anything else. Aden can read the way the surface of the swell twitches and seems to pull away from the direction of travel. He watches the small waves that are superimposed on the main wave. He is the best.
And me? I can read Aden.