Malleable in Mallaig

This morning was a good reminder of travel days of old, dealing with logistics and changing plans. Relying on public transport in this part of the world means you have to be on top of ferry timings and advance bookings. After over a year of no travel we were perhaps rusty, but we soon got our game faces on and sorted out some plans for the week ahead.

Today’s main activity was walking the coast south of Mallaig, via the Silver Sands of Morar, Camusdarach Beach and ending up in Arisaig. It was all very picturesque and with the Scottish summer break having just begun, there was a buzz in some of the busier spots as freshly released families rocked up in camper vans for their holidays.

The scenery was dramatic on the inland parts of the walk, with crags poking out, gathering clouds and bursts of strong sunlight. I could smell a lot of what seemed like wild dill. Between Mallaig and Morar I was perfectly timed at an opening in the trees to see the Jacobite steam train hammer by, full of day-trippers. You can get expansive views of the Silver Sands and the River Morar from a metallic cross sat on a high point above the village.

Michelle was on her bike but we reconvened at points, including at Camusdarach, which was the highlight. We picnicked, including on some delicious strawberries from Angus, at a secluded spot, and then continued on trails through bracken and beach. There are only about three trains per day but we caught one back from Arisaig to Mallaig. A sign at Arisaig proclaims it as the most westerly station in Britain, which pleased geography geeks Michelle and I.

In the evening we ate leftovers on picnic benches by Mallaig harbour, and a seal bobbed up somewhere near the quay. The activity around Mallaig port feels quiet but it remains an important hub. Useful information boards around the village speak of its former prominence in the herring industry especially in the 1960s.

The only thing to do before bedtime was to ensure we had enough emergency provisions for tomorrow’s relocation to the Isle of Rùm. A can of Irn-Bru was duly purchased and stashed as a backup energy boost.