Made it

Massive increase in swell size this morning, I was so excited to hear the boom of the sets from home I ran down the beach without my monopod for my large lens (the swell had been forecast for later today). The main photo is a surfer taking off at the critical point of the wave and the second shot him pulling into the same wave face a second later (note the surfer paddling out in both shoots-"duck-diving" in the second).