Schlep

It was a 3am departure for the day-long drive to the provincial capital, Lichinga. Even earlier than the early guess I’d made. As it was akin to a nighttime game drive, I was rewarded handsomely by a large pack of wild dogs and pups. I’ve never before managed to see them from ground level. The way they ran in front of the car, it’s clear to see how they become victims of roadkill. When the sun came up and we were travelling through some rugged rocky areas, the dawn revealed zebra, wildebeest and kudu.

On the downside, tsetse flies are little rats, they really are. Manuel, one of the Conservancy staff who was travelling out for his rest days, said that by the time we reach our destination, ‘o sangue já acabou’ (blood [will have] already gone).

At the district town of Mecula, I was greeted by a Mr Cable (spelling unconfirmed) who spoke English well and confirmed he’d learnt in Tanzania. He asked for a job, which is a very common request here. He also asked for anything in English that he could read. Imagine if you all wanted to do was practise your English in a place where no one else really speaks a word, and you didn’t have the means of accessing anything written. Mr Cable then declared we were best friends and that he was going home to wash his trousers.

The route out of the Reserve passes through some breathtaking scenery. I think I’ve had the same reaction before in this spot and once here some children rubbed my skin, transfixed by its whiteness.

At the next district town of Marrupa, we fuelled up with an egg butty at a shack doubling as a canteen. From there to the provincial capital of Lichinga the road improves, and I noted lots of a) baboons, which I imagine are a menace to farmers, and b) rain.

We eventually arrived 15 hours after setting off, quite zombified. I reacquainted myself with Lichinga and had a thwarted attempt at the bank, as the ATM queues were too long. I have got some basic lodgings in what Mozambicans call a pensão. This one has power tools on the bathroom floor and no bathroom light or door handle but I should be thankful that someone has been attempting renovations. The overwhelming aroma of paint was mitigated by some focused ventilation, and I slept fairly early.