arrived on nangan island... the sunrise lost behind a shroud of low cloud, peaks barely seen through haze, hillsides rising and an empty terminal with a hot water machine, aeropress remembered, coffee was had... sudden chill in the air in comparison to taipei, sitting by the harbour watching the day move around us, wandering towards the hostel, dumping gear and setting off on a wander around the northern part of the island... it's beautiful, no doubt about that, rocky islets, beaches and hills, small villages and abandoned army facilities, gun emplacements and pill boxes scattered along the walk... other island attempt to emerge from the haze upon the water, further glimpses of hills rising... it's a small place though and, knee pretty functional, maybe not enough time is taken, arriving at the massive statue of mazu, her lantern glowing in the evening, inviting sailors back to the island and then further south, the haar coming in mid afternoon, darkening skies and a freshening wind, something homely about the place and the weather ... the rabbit hole in kpd...