Deep in the citadel. This is an exhibition of work by Haure Madjid inside the house of Sheikh Jamil Afand , about whom (both of them) I know knew nothing. Madjid is an Iraqi Kurd based in Germany - see here. Sponsored by the Goethe Institute, et al. I have been inside this house before, escorted by the Good Policeman, and the main reason for bothering with this exhibition was of course to get inside again.

It has arches (in the picture) around a deep courtyard, with a fountain, and strange cool half-subterranean rooms down several steps around that - though as this house is on the walls of the citadel, these rooms have windows with views over the city. There is fancy plasterwork in the upper galleries and some of the reception rooms upstairs have (rather primitive) frescos. I have no sense of how old these rooms are - probably not very, though the mound they are on is 8000 years.

Then we had tea and mastow (a smooth water, sheep's milk yogurt and ice mix - Kurdish ayran, effectively) in the old chaikhane in the bazaar below, with conversation in Kurdish, Farsi, Turkish, Polish and English. We are never able to pay for anything in there: very warm hospitality from the old fellows. No sign of our Armenian friend, unfortunately. I want to talk to him about Diyarbakir, where I was looking at the scant remains of the Armenian community his grandfather belonged to before their holocaust and his escape.