Heimaey, Iceland

“The paradox of volcanoes was that they were symbols of destruction but also life”.
Matt Haig, The Midnight Library
An early start for the morning ferry to Heimay; scrape the frost off the windscreen first, another cold start. We wandered onto the ferry which seemed to be sitting waiting for business, enjoying the view, when a crew member came over and said we shouldn’t be there, oops. He checked our tickets, since we were there may as well stay. Very quiet in the lounge and we were chatting about life on Iceland when a nearby passenger politely introduced himself. He was from Westfjords and we were all soon engaged in animated conversation. He was heading over to Heimay for a game of golf at Vestmannaeyjar Golf Club, surely unique in its setting in the shadow of an old volcano. I say old, nearby Eldfell was formed during eruptions in 1973 destroying half the town with the lava flow threatening to close off the port, the islands main source of income. All quiet for our visit today though. K2 and R planned on hoofing it to the puffin lookout at the far end of the island; we contented ourselves with a few hours strolling around the town and rugged coastal scenery after breakfast at Vigtin bakhús overlooking the port (opposite the Beluga Whale Sanctuary).  Very quiet on the walk through the lava fields to the dramatic cliffs overlooking the inlet, but as soon as I paused to check directions on Google Maps a local materialised as if from nowhere at my side asking if we needed help. Any excuse for a chat we stopped to talk anyway, he was out for his morning walk.
We skirted the town, and the golf course, to visit Elephant Rock on the other side of the island; it was so comical watching oystercatchers foraging on the tees. I’d read of some of the walks having ropes to assist visitors up the steeper ascents, but when I saw them I was seriously glad I hadn’t intended going up onto the clifftops – brought the north face of the Eiger to mind!
Back in town K1 visited the sanctuary to see if there were many puffins in, while I sat outside in the sunshine for a short meditation. Even though only about 6 degrees we’d wrapped up well and the sunshine was warm in the sheltered port. We had to get the 4.30 ferry to catch the (only) bus back to Reykjavik, leaving K2 and R to continue their onward journey to the glaciers and ice caves.