Change. 
Today J sets off for Spiti while I have two more nights here. But a full night of sleep seems to have dispelled the murk of the last few days, the resurgent thought of heading up in a couple of days if there's no recurrence of the night horrors or anxiety. Although there's still a reluctance to board another bus, unavoidable though that future may be.
But it's an odd one, I can't think of anyone I've spent as much time with when travelling and it's just been a joy. Still, with thoughts above, it'd be amusing to meet up in Kaza in a few days. 
Switching rooms and catching up on washing and some photographs, a day of little which feels like the first one in weeks. But time passes. 
The afternoon spent listening to the sound of water until the wind strengthens into a howl and brings a covering of cloud for the higher slopes and summits. 
Later an attempt to sit down for a chat with Rakesh who owns the local market and had a master's degree at nineteen. But it gets busy, the village quiet undermined by the constant flow of customers. Later I hope 
But the question remains, what is it about this place which captivated both J and I?