Beni-Isguen

Chris is the one man standing, Mr C having had a bad night. He sometimes has trouble if he eats too much bread and there’s been a lot of that. Mr Know-All had the shits yesterday, took Imodium and ate a big lunch and supper. So is now back to square one…..

Breakfast was help ourselves to bread, little plastic pots of runny jam and coffee, well stewed.

After the steps and walking yesterday I was very sensible (for me, for a change) and decided to give the main town and market a miss, as I thought the village late afternoon visit would be more interesting. I had the pool to myself. It was lovely and relaxing but I should have brought another book.

We explored another of the pentapolis of the M’Zab valley and the houses that lie scattered around the hilltops. Each village is built on the same principle, with the houses being built in concentric circles around a central mosque and minaret which top the hill. The bottom of the settlement is protected by high walls and sometimes ramparts. Originally these villages were fed by a unique water system that was devised by the Mozabites to capture rainwater and divert it to the oasis by means of underground tunnels. Despite their very traditional and conservative ways the people remain highly innovative and control much of Algeria’s commerce. (Obviously not the women).

When we left for Beni-Isguen at 5.30 we were only 4. It had been a tough morning in the heat so Transmit only and the Australian racist (also found to be a conspiracy theorist!) stayed behind. The village, founded in 1321, is home to the Amazigh tribe of Berber people. There are 12 tribes or clans in the village and the elders organise civic life and take care of the vulnerable, along with the Halka of Adana, the religious and educational organisation established in the 10th century to maintain the values of the Ibadhi. The Timsiriden is the women’s council dealing with issues that affect women.

A young local guide who had taught himself English by watching films and Eminem (“he’s fast so it made me stay focused”).We started at the market place, a triangular shape, where we’d hope so see the auction but it wasn’t happening because of Eid on Friday. We wound our way up through narrow ochre-walled alleys to the watchtower which Chris (50) and Janine (53) climbed. I didn’t as the stairs were steep. 3 girls aged about 7- 10 came to chat. They were quite fiesty which was nice.

We got back at 8. Dinner is at 8.30 and is a treat of camel. I have already said I’ll just have the veggie option of bread, Laughing Cow and melon.