A desert day

We are now in Erg Occidental. Here the Berber groups are less conservative than in the Ghardaia area and their features are more West African in appearance.

Because of Eid there wasn’t any bread for breakfast - we had yogurt and dates and melon.

Zenet is the main tribe in Timmimoun. There are a lot of people here from West African descent. There are few nomads, the only ones being Touregs, like Mali. People settled here as there was water and fertile soil. Agriculture and commerce are the main focus and there’s a big military presence.

Red mud bricks are used for building, with lime, stone and palm trees to strengthen the roofs, as in Mali, and there are several Zhars (hilltop fortresses) from 10 and 11th centuries in the area. Tribes Attacked each other for food hence the well-defended hilltops.

Visiting one of these places was our first visit this morning, 30 minutes late in starting as the Oz racist got stuck in her room and M’Hamed couldn’t find hotel staff to help. Eventually she got out and then had to move to another room. It wasn’t far in the bus then we saw a cave system and continued to explore the old ruined fortress. We saw 2 girls peeping out a door - they still live in the old part though most others have moved to the modern village. M’Hamed gave them money for Eid.

Nowadays the water table is in danger. Our next visit was to see the old Foggara irrigation system which is still used. Water comes from many km in underground channels. The water appeared from 3 then is divided and siphoned off to irrigate. The first pipe in is for drinking and we saw a man come to collect some in a Jerry can then wash his face and feet. Houses don’t have water all day as there’s a shortage so some come here to get a Jerry can full. Only one person maintains the system now.

Our third visit was to another fortress, this time black coloured as the material came from a volcanic area. By now it was over 40 degrees and we were wilting so we got back in the bus, arriving at the hotel at noon. We had time for a shower before lunch of tuna and tomato salad, veg soup, omelette and chips. The hotel sells beer so Mr C got one then we had a rest. I had a swim but the rails of the steps in were too hot to hold so I had to go in the smaller pool which was in the shade.

Our last visit left at 5.30 when we were picked up by Toyota land cruisers and driven into the desert to see another fortress and some strange shaped rocks. The Berber guides made a tea ceremony after we’d wandered about a bit. We went straight to the guest house for dinner after the desert trip at 9. Again some tasty salads and dips for all, and lamb chops and chicken kebabs for the meat eaters. They made a mango cheesecake thing for Mr C’s birthday. It was 10.30 when we got back. We are all pretty tired. Most thought today was the best, but we’ve had more interesting deserts in Jordan, Oman, Egypt’s White Desert, Namibia to name a few, but it’s a bit different so interesting, just too hot. I had my third shower of the day. My leg is so sore now (3.5 miles walked) but hopefully I’ll be tired enough with all the heat to sleep.