Accous to Urdos

A much cooler day, and perfect for an unexpectedly mildly challenging walk. A straightforward off road trail from Accous until just before Borce. I met two French pilgrims, father and son, who asked me if the riverside path ahead was safe. Airily I said I would be walking it. They did, I didn’t. Having successfully navigated a field of cows, bulls and calves keeping a very wide berth I took the decision not to risk a few tricky sections. I backtracked beside the river to avoid the cows where perversely I met them a second time, crossed the Pont de Chèvre’s and walked along the road to Borce. This worked well and was not as busy as I had feared.

I stopped in Borce and explored the restored pilgrim Hospitalet Saint Jaques with its stunning modern glass sculpture. Coffee and a crepe in the only place open was very welcome.

The official Camino route to Urdos where I am tonight is more or less along the main road. Efforts have been made to place barriers between the traffic and walkers on the most dangerous bends.

One such bend was through the Urdos Gorge. Towering high up was the foreboding Fort du Portalet, extra. Built between 1842 and 1870 it guards the border of the Pyrenees and access to the Col du Somport. Quite extraordinary, I cannot begin to understand the engineering involved.