Rasht, Northern Iran.

There are many things I have been asked, as a tourist, here in Iran. First and foremost is, "how is Iran?", followed closely by "do you like Iranians?", "are we all terrorists?". There is a huge insecurity about the way Iran, and Iranians, are portrayed in the Western press. My usual go-to answer, which I believe is the truth, is that we actually don't hear anything about Iranians in our news stories.

There's a veritable smorgasbord of stuff about the military, governmental activities and general international affairs on offer to us. And if you read the news closely there are a couple of features on Iranians in exile. But we hear very little about the day to day life, the culture, the fashion, the music, the mind-set of your average, middle-class Tehrani student.

For anyone in any doubt, I can assure you that Iran and Iranians, just like a good smorgasbord, is complex and full of contrast. As complex and contrasting and unique as any country on t'other side of the Caspian.

However, there is a shared friendliness which links all Iranians and makes the Persian culture such a warm one to sink deeply into.