The Grand Canal

On the vaporetto (water bus) this morning, down the Grand Canal once more, to the Rialto markets to see the Erberia, or produce market, but more importantly the Pescheria, otherwise known as the Rialto Fish Market. These markets have operated here since 1097, so they are reasonably old!

While Venice has only 58 000 residents, the markets serve the restaurant industry, so it’s very much a local market that tourists can visit … Compared to other markets we’ve seen, especially Vietnam, it’s pretty small and pretty clean/tidy, and not overly chaotic. But, there’s a very different array of seafood, many of which are local. Stingray, scallops, snapper, herring, clams, even swordfish, albeit small ones. Pretty diverse rage and reasonable prices.

Market done, back onto the vaporetto and down the canal to the Jewish ghetto. The ghetto was instituted in 1516, infamous for being the first ghetto. The Jews were locked in the ghetto but allowed out during the day as they performed important jobs, doctors, money traders etc. Napoleon however in his short stay in Venice after conquering it in 1797, abolished the gates and Jews were free to live elsewhere. The area still has a small community.

Back on the boat and down the canal once more, jumping off to see St Maria of Salute Basilica, one of the most prominent churches that graces the Venice skyline. It’s famous as it was built after the plague wiped out a third of Venice’s population in the 1600’s, and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who for many reasons was thought to be a protector of the Republic. Entry was free.

We’ve been pondering a gondola ride, but for several reasons decided it wasn’t going to work. The cost, 80 euro for 40 minutes we thought OK, but we didn’t want to do one on the grand canal (too busy) so finding a back street one was a little trickier, and frankly, the kids are a bit over stuff … so we decided to take the cheap option, a Gondola Traghetto. Essentially a gondola taxi across that Grand Canal, that costs 2 euro each. Gondola ride, ticked off and done!

Last thing to tick off, St Marks Basilica, so back into the square we ferried … the line wasn’t too based, but as we got to the front listening to our audio guide, we discovered a shortcut on busy days. Check your bag, then go straight to the front of the queue. Which as we go to the front of the queue is what we had to do. But finally we were in, listening to Rick Steves audio guide. Entry was free.

Have to say, a very amazing church, here’s why. First, this is where the remains of St Mark, one of the four evangelists are said to be. His remains were “stolen” from Egypt in 828, hidden in a barrel of pork to keep the Muslims at bay, and a church built to house his remains. In 1063 when the church was reconstructed with a dazzling display of gold ground mosaics on all ceilings and upper walls. It’s amazing, not seen anything like it. Oh yep, St Mark was also symbolised by the lion, of which you’ll see hundreds around Venice!

And finally, being 5, time to head back to the apartment. Nice dinner for our last night out? No, a stay at home night, planning the next few days, and more importantly giving the kids time to catch up … one small girl in particular is on the cusp of losing it.

Tomorrow, the Dolomites, now that is going to be a contrast!