Sunrise at the crater lake at Mount Ijen

Its difficult getting up at 12.30am but we manage and are off to Mount Ijen at 1am. On arrival we meet our local guide and take the trek to the area where we see the famous blue fire. Its a steep upward trek and guide goes quickly so a group of us lose him and continue on our own, following other groups. On arrival at the crater where the blue fire is we then have to scramble down the rocky crater to the gaseous sulphur mining area below. The electric blue flames are caused by sulphuric gas burning and are absolutely amazing but the toxic gases are strong down here so we don't linger for more than about 30 minutes. As we head down, sulphur miners are heading up, carrying baskets with heavy sulphur in them. They apparently carry about 50kg or more and we're sure they're less than delighted with all the tourists descending on their already noxious and difficult workplace.

We manage to catch up with our guide and a few other members of our group and head to a viewpoint for sunrise. We get there around 4.30am and the sunrise is just beginning. Its a good one and we have 360 degree views with the sunrise in one direction and Ijen and its beautiful blue crater lake in the other.  ABSOLUTELY STUNNING doesn't even describe it. We've never seen anything like it and all you can hear are gasps and wows from everyone ... well worth the early get up.

After we trek back to the minivan we are taken to Ketapang to board our ferry to Bali. We're understandably shattered but turn down an offer of a mini van all the way to our destination of Ubud of from the tour operator as we think its expensive (about a fiver). We soon regret that decision. We take the ferry at about 9am, go for some food then head to the bus station.  There is no direct bus to Ubud and, after negotiation, we get a local bus part of the way with promises we can get off en route and take a bemo (pick-up/mini van) the rest of the way. The journey is almost four hours long and Fred realises we are in the area we need to get off at ... she nudges Andy, who is dozing to check with the conductor as she's hemmed in by other passengers ... too late. We miss it and by the time we check we have to go to Denpasar where we didn't want to end up! We do get a bemo to our guest house but, overall, its costs us the same as the direct mini van for a lot more hassle.  Bali looked beautiful from the bus window but we're too tired to explore tonight. Our guest house is part art gallery/part guest house and luckily it is peaceful and lovely. We just pop over the road for dinner then go straight to bed.  What a day.