Hoi An

Our hotel is in a beautiful location on the sea front. The temperature is a little cooler and it was a delight to drift off to sleep last night to the lapping waves on the shore line.

For today's excursion, we've had a tour on foot around the delights of Hoi An old town.  It's a beautiful place, very old fashioned and with plenty of atmosphere. And pedestrianised. Almost.

We've seen local Vietnamese musicians and dancers in a tiny theatre; watched women sewing the most intricately embroidered landscapes and portraits you could ever imagine; visited the oldest house in Hoi An and heard about the flooding and how they deal with it in their houses year after year; taken a boat ride to see a little of riverside and fishing life; and my favourite... Been shown the whole silkworm process in a tailor's shop with growing silkworms, cocoon making and spinning taffeta thread directly from the cocoons submerged in hot water.  The pupae do die but as usual, nothing goes to waste. People eat them.

Our guide today, Tah, shared much about his life in the countryside. The stories we've heard from all of our guides, about their lives have really enhanced each of the outings. It seems to give you more of a connection with the country and people.

Hoi An is quaint and a place that we were told would perhaps be our favourite place. I can see why. For us, however, after experiencing a remoter part of Vietnam, this feels very much for tourists. It's rather like Murano and Burano in Venice; you can really appreciate its beauty and the atmosphere is superb, particularly in the evening with pretty lights strung across the streets, but every shop, cafe, restaurant and street seller is geared towards visitors. The real life seems hidden behind the facade. I'm glad we've had the opportunity to visit Vietnam now as I suspect in 10 years time, far far more will have headed in this direction.  

My smiler moment arrived this evening. After we'd wandered the old streets on our own, we stopped for a drink and Rich spotted a boy who'd spotted a rat on the other side of the street. It went into hiding for a while but it wasn't long before it dashed across the street, into our bar and scuttled along the wall ornaments next to me.  That's the real part and we rather liked it.

Before dinner, I enjoyed an amazing massage. With lots of sitting, very little exercise and none of my usual stretches, my shoulders were on tenterhooks wondering whether I'd do anything about them groaning. So, before they short circuited, I gave them a much needed treat. Sooo much better.