The Stones

A gorgeous flat calm sea awaited us this morning as we drove the all of 500m from the hotel to the ferry terminal. The two and a half hour journey across the water to Stornaway was uneventful so that gives me time to add a post script to last nights dinner. When I checked out this morning I only expected to pay for our meal since the room had been paid for in advance. When I walked up to the desk though, they had no record of it, in spite of us having passed our room number twice to different servers. The manager was called but he too could find no record so he told me there was no charge. His exact words were "Your waiter will pay for dinner." I hope he was joking...

It's fair to say that the trip to Lewis was mostly about one thing, the standing stones at Callanish and following a quick stop at the information centre in Stornaway, it was to there we made our way.

It's fair to say that Callanish One, the main arrangement, is absolutely stunning. Perched on a ridge above Loch Roag, the stones are formed n the shape of a Celtic cross. It is believed that they were erected in the Neolithic period and were a ritual site right thorough the Bronze Age. The rubble from a small burial cairn resides inside the main circle of thirteen stones with a double row of stones framing an avenue leading down from the circle on the long axis and single rows on the other three to form the cross. The site leads experts to believe that religious practices of some form have taken place here for around 1500 years.

As expected, the place was full of tourists and trying to get a shot of the stones without someone walking in front of you was impossible. Frustrating as I try my best to keep out of others shots only to have them wander aimlessly in front of you when they are done. I had to leave before I said something. Although the visitor information shop closes at 5pm the site is left open always so Gitama and I decided to pop along later in the evening when it would hopefully be a little quieter and to watch the sun set over the site.

When we arrived at around 11pm there was only one person wandering around the site. Unfortunately he had a drone and while he stayed out of shot he was constantly flying it over and around the stones. After a while of silent cursing though he packed it up and Gitama and I had the site to ourselves... although he did flit about with a stills camera for a while. I say alone, but you're never really alone on the west coast of Scotland in warm conditions near water... Gitama was finally introduced to the midge! Bloody hell, but they swarmed. I'd been lulled into a false sense of security with our earlier visit and so didn't prepare. As a result I was pretty much bit to pieces. Lesson learnt, Skin So Soft was dragged out of the bag for all future wanders.


The light was gorgeous and soft as the sun drifted towards the horizon although it was cut short by he hill it dipped behind before getting to ground level. As we were leaving another photographer arrived saying that the night was to be clear and he was coming to try for a celestial shot. As there was only a couple of hours between last light and sunrise I wasn't convinced there would be much to see but Gitama and I decided to come back in the early hours to see for ourselves. Our day was done at the stones but it would be an early return tomorrow.

Gitama's take on the day can be found here.