Day 10: East to West to South Lewis

After cycling generally quiet roads and seeing relatively few folks for over a week, Stornoway yesterday came as a shock to the system so we were glad to be heading out this morning albeit in a very wet, very busy rush hour.

Thankfully, just south of the town we took Bernie's advice (our host at Loch Erisort Inn) and turned off on to the Pentland Road. Originally this was one of Lord Leverburgh's schemes, to build a railway to take fish across country to Stornoway but, like several of his schemes, it folded and the road is what remains. It is single track with passing places and goes pretty much straight for twelve miles to the west coast. It passes through wild terrain with no settlements giving fabulous views of the distant mountains and many lochans.

Once we reached the end of the Pentland Road, we turned North for a few miles to visit the Blackhouse Village at Gearrannan. This is a community venture with several blackhouses being restored and providing holiday accommodation, a hostel, a museum and a recreation of one of the houses as it was in the 1950's. There was also a former weaver demonstrating the weaving of Harris Tweed. It was interesting to us that his machine was built by Hattersleys of Keighley, so we will be doing some searching when we get home.

There is evidence of a settlement at Gearrannan at least two thousand years ago but the blackhouses village dates from the 17th century. Electricity came to the village in 1952 and the number of Harris Tweed weavers increased to more than 20 by 1950. The blackhouses eventually were left with an ageing population who could not continue their upkeep and so in 1974 the remaining residents moved in to nearby council houses. A great place to visit! We spoke with the weaver who told us it took six hours to set up the loom for new Tweed weaving and it was very labour intensive with up to 700 knots having to be tied. It made me appreciate the value of my very special bit of Harris Tweed purchased yesterday, which still has to be made in the traditional way to count as genuine Harris Tweed.

It was back on the bikes and down the tourist road (political point so look away now if you've already had enough electioneering! I noted that the very fine new road was financed partly by the European Union! No wonder the Scots want to stay in)

We stopped off to visit the Dun Carlabhagh Broch which is huge and, despite much of its stone being robbed out, still gives the visitor a clear idea of what it must have looked like when in use. It stands proud on the hillside with fine views out across to the sea.

More miles down the road and we parked up our bikes at the Callanish Stones Visitor Centre. There are four stone circles in this immediate area and, as with all stone circles their reason for being is unclear. My blip is taken at the largest circle and I have only managed to capture the stones in the centre because there were so many folks all over them and a very annoying chap with a brolly standing in the very middle for ages! They are amazing structures and very spiritual.

We shared a plate of quiche and chips in the cafe, hung out to see a heavy shower go through and then set off the twenty miles back to Erisort - in to a headwind all the way!

An enjoyable if tiring day and tomorrow we go back over the mountain and take the ferry to Skye!