Castello Doria

In the late summer of that year we lived in a house in a village that looked across the river and the plain to the mountains.

We're in Lerici before 10 drinking coffee on the sea front. Our Cinque Terre ferry tickets are already stuffed in our pockets, so we're ready to join the masses on the next boat at 10:30. The plan is that we'll ride it to the furthest stop, Monterosso, have lunch and then hop back.

The journey is amazing. The villages are astonishing, the terracing is extensive, the sea a glorious deep blue. The sea breeze keeps us cool, despite the blazing sun and there's the covered lower deck when the light gets too much.

Watching elderly tourists clamber up and down a bucking gangway at each of the tiny harbours adds some amusement. The captain thoughtfully plays a backing soundtrack of famous movie theme tunes performed by an Italian orchestra, which he occasionally punctuates with tourist commentary in Italian, English, and French.

Monterosso is crowded, but restaurant Paui find us a table for 9 and we have a lovely lunch. A misunderstanding leaves Claire with a bottle of rosé rather than a mojito, but we jump to the rescue. I forego dessert, but avail myself of espresso and grappa.

We split up after the meal. The Bannerman's head through the tunnel to the nice beach, Claire and Megan jump into the sea at the harbour and Angus, Ferdi and I wander the town in search of shade. Then, along with Claire and Megan, we board another ferry and head for Vernazza.

Vernazza is smaller, but no less beautiful. We climb steep, narrow streets to Castello Doria and are rewarded with a fantastic vista from the top of the tower. The ocean sparkles and the Ligurian coast fades stylishly into the bright, blue-grey distance.

Claire and Megan have another harbour to jump into. The water is lovely, but getting out is challenging. Waves break over rocks that need to be traversed before reaching steps up to the dock. They both get swept back into the sea, but eventually reach terra firma, slightly grazed.

The last ferry back drops us in Portovenere, where we change for Lerici and are reunited with clan Bannerman. They have wine and beer - we detour to the supermarket for essentials: milk and dishwasher tablets.

Gnocchi al forno for tea, followed by tiramisu à la plastico.