Eidfjord

North from Røldal, via height-gaining helical tunnels, to the inner Hardangerfjord at Odda, where we lunch. Liz shops for provisions while the kids play chess in the park with giant chess pieces. From Odda, North along Sørfjorden where the road is narrow and often blocked by coaches of tourists meeting RVs. The scenery is spectacular, and I’m surprised to find the lower west-facing slopes well cultivated with apple and cherry orchards.

The kids are tired and fractious, and the journey becomes increasingly fraught, threatening to sap enjoyment from the day. Frequent stops are required, both to take in the incredible views, and put a stop to squabbling in the back. Even the kids are impressed by Hardanger Bru, the longest suspension bridge in Norway, and the longest tunnel-to-tunnel bridge in the world.

The campsite at Øvre Eidfjord is super. It’s in a steep-sided valley next to what was once a pro-glacial lake bounded by impressive moraines.

The kids go off and explore the beach, woods and river with a notebook in which they make a map. We sit and watch as the sun is eclipsed by the 700 metre high monolith looming over us. We drove through it to get here.