I went back to the Roaches to look at the route, to understand, and it has helped... and I should just trust gut instinct!

This is the Don Whillans Memorial Hut, built right into the rock. I haven't stayed there, but Mary has.

To the right of the photo there's a climber on Prow Cracks, which would've been a more sensible route for me - not nearly so steep - but it was occupied on tuesday too!