Many parts

Had nearly finished a long blip detailing today's doings when the hotel reception called to say the Northern Lights were showing so I dropped everything to rush out and managed to lose my entry. So this will be much more brief.

A visit to ancient columnar lava formed by magma flowing over shallow water; as the water boiled the magma was pushed up by venting steam but left standing when the surrounding crust collapsed. There are some interesting arches and holes, mostly obscured by the snow, but it would make pleasant walking at other times. Many small trees (birch, mostly) in amongst the formations, and it's apparently full of birds in warmer weather. Not today, though!

Then a drive to the geothermal power station which takes piped steam from vents to power turbines and generate electricity. The hot water 'waste' is the local hot water supply - which explains the interesting sulphurous flavour completely. We walked up to the top of the valley head to view a long ridge that was created from upwelling magma as recently as the 1970s - pretty mind boggling to think this part of earth's topology is younger than me. A good hour's wander for a fantastic vista downvalley.

Bubbling mud was next on the agenda - reminded me of a chocolate fountain in consistency but I wouldn't recommend taste testing it. A number of small, enthusiastic vents on the same site, surrounded by crystallised sulphur of that particularly lurid yellow.

We lunched and then dipped at the local thermal baths. What a sensuous delight! A quick sprint (stagger) through sub-zero air to 38 C pools was just wonderful; frankly, forget the birding and geology and just leave me floating serenely. Sadly, not to be.

Instead, a local cafe with an unusual USP; a cow byre viewing gallery. A big window allows visitors to eat and drink looking into some extremely well fed and watered cows and calves. The cows had 'bras' (I'm not kidding, we asked!) as the Icelandic endemic breed have particularly long teats which can get damaged by a misplaced hoof or two (ouch!) so they wear a canvas sling with a big udder bag attached (extra). There was even a 4 stall parlour on display (only 16 cows) but we weren't there at the right time.

After all that excitement you would have thought we could have a little lie down, but instead we had another great wander to see pseudocraters on the edge of L Myvatn. These are a rare phenomenon created from steam explosions as magma flows over larger volumes of water. I believe there are also some on Hawaii.

Goodness! Loads done today, but still no Gyr Falcon. Too cold for hunting is the theory (it's been down to -12 C today). Fingers crossed for a sighting - we've not long left!

Thanks to you all for the hearts and comments. A bit busy for individual replies just at present but normal service soon!