I went with Son to the airport first thing this morning, responsible for his lighter bag. I don't think we've had three days with just the two of us together since he was responsible for the lighter bag, aged about 2. We've had a great time together, agreeing on what we want to do, having long conversations over good meals, buying strange beers and giving each other tastes... When I waved him off I felt just as bereft as I did on his first day at primary school.
I rallied on the bus back to town and when, armed with planning brain and mobile internet, I found that there were no tickets available for the Schindler (of 'List' fame) Factory Museum in Podgórze until next week, I discovered and bought (aren't phones brilliant?!) the last 2-day tourist ticket in the whole of Krakow for free access to museums and free public transport. So by the time I was back in town I was ready to go.
This image is an artwork in Schindler's Factory Museum, inspired, I'm sure, by the enamel that was being made in Schindler's factory but I suspect also by what I blipped yesterday.
The museum has only one room dedicated to him; the rest is about Krakow 1939-45 and is another immersive museum, in the style of the two that overwhelmed me in Warsaw. I paced myself better this time, and read just the very brief historical milestones plus personal testimonies. Much better. Reading about the liberation of Krakow by the Russians was interesting - it was as critical as it could be about what they did and how they did it. There are seriously unsettled scores here.
Then I wandered round Podgórze, where the Nazis set up the Krakow ghetto, and briefly visited the Eagle Pharmacy where a non-Jewish chemist found his business walled into the ghetto then proceeded to care for and protect the Jews as best he could.
I loved the Bernatek footbridge over the Wisła - how inspired to create a sculpture of acrobats in among the wires above (extra)!
Back in Kazimierz in the evening sun (extra), I tried to find the street with klezmer musicians again. I have a very good sense of position and direction but I've realised over the last three days that Son's is better so I've let him take the lead and I haven't been aware as I usually am of how places fit together. It took a lot of thinking to work out where I needed to be.
Two excellent cellos today.
And I used my free transport only twice today - walking is my mode, however much my feet ache!