Tai Chi on a board
Well I thought he looked like he was doing some Tai Chi. You will be pleased to know he survived the wave despite being completely encased in two frames along.
I chose this because there was a big swell and this best showed the the waves as they got to shore. This chap I might add was not out with the big boys who really had some waves to contend with but were a little too far out to do them any justice.