By Veronica


A far cry from the Mediterranean. The weather in Cádiz this morning. Another view in extras. Our host Jorge gave us some rainy day ideas, so after collecting more weatherproof gear from the car we sallied forth. We'd have liked to try the camera obscura in the Torre Tavira, but because of the awful weather it was closed. Instead we had a surprisingly interesting guided tour of the Phoenician and Roman remains under the puppet theatre: recommended. Then there was a lot of rain dodging. We wouldn't have bothered with the cathedral if it hadn't been pouring rain and blowing a gale as we passed: 5 Euros each for a bit of shelter.

Now the serious stuff: lunch. With sincere thanks to ArtyFartyAnnie for her recommendations. We stopped first at La Sorpresa, where the delicious anchovy and tuna based tapas were far too rich (and expensive) to make a meal of. So after a couple of those and some sherry we headed for her other recommendation, La Candela. Very unassuming from the outside, but inside it was heaving. We sat at the bar for ten minutes with a drink, waiting for a table. It was worth every minute ... the food was fabulous. We thought we'd died and gone to heaven, and what's more the bill was only 43 Euros. We will be back.

It was well after four when we left, and pouring, again. We visited the tourist information office and then headed back home to research the options for a rainy evening. S convinced me to go for Russian film Beanpole. Another hit; the story is unremittingly grim but the cinematography so beautiful that it softens the blows. The colour palette is so carefully handled: turquoise, burnt orange, blood red, and lots of beige. We came out happy, and wandered into nearby bar Casa Lazo for wine and a couple of tapas. It wasn't Candela level, but the tapas were good and the staff infectiously cheerful. So a brilliant day despite the diabolical weather. More of which is predicted for tomorrow.

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