Day 43

Day forty two
Thursday - 27th February 2020

Current position
New Fairmount Hotel
84 John Hunt Way
Livingstone
Zambia
S 17°50.58816'
E 25°51.57822'

The breakfast café didn't seem to bake doughnuts for breakfast so we took our own that we'd bought from them the day before. Unfortunately we found that doughnuts don't last well even if they're in the fridge so after coffee and a stale doughnut our tamed taxi driver picked us up outside the café and dropped us off at the bridge over the river Zambezi.
We went into the dusty Immigration office where we got our passports stamped to leave Zambia and bought a visa for our return. Crossing the bridge we were again attacked by the same knick knack sellers as we were yesterday but we eventually managed to shake them off as we carried on. Our passports were again stamped and after paying the requisite visa fee we entered Zimbabwe. After passing through the two borders it appeared that no one seems to make proper checks and we reckon that we could probably have got away and saved the visa fees by using a bridge pass as we did yesterday.
The entrance to the Falls was only one hundred metres from the border and we were soon inside enjoying a coffee before setting off to explore. The Zimbabwe facilities were alot better than the Zambian ones and the coffee was much better too. We did not shell out for a map as it was quite obvious in which direction we needed to go. We started at the extreme left of the Falls and systematically worked our way to the right. The first part of the Falls from the left were in my opinion the best as a large torrent of water escaped from a narrowish channel and cascaded down into a deep chasm sending up a cloud of thunderous mist.
We walked the full length of the Falls visiting and taking photographs at every viewing point. The nearer we got to the right hand side of the Falls the wetter we became as the slight breeze sent clouds of spray in our direction. We got absolutely drenched as we did not think of putting on our cagoules until it was too late. At the penultimate viewing point where we were completely surrounded by the sound of pounding water the spray was like a huge downpour of rain and I could not take photographs as it would have water logged my camera. The final viewing point however was away from the Falls and gave a view of the old bridge spanning the two Countries. Fortunately there was a small wooden bench where we could sit to rest and have a bite of lunch and more importantly start to dry ourselves out.
We slowly made our way back to the entrance in the hot sun which nicely dried out our shirts and shorts. Back at the entrance it was time for a cup of tea and a piece of cake as we watched the waiters chase away the mischievous monkeys before they could steal the customer's food.
We set off for the bridge to have our passports stamped yet again.   To save our legs and to miss the knick knack seller's we caught a cycle rickshaw back across the bridge. When we got back to Zambia the SIM in my phone which had worked all day suddenly decided to give up the ghost just when I needed it most to call Raphael the taxi man. In the end I had to asked the lady attendant who took the toilet entry fee if she had a phone and she kindly called him for me. Twenty minutes later we were picked up and dropped outside our hotel.
We had a glass of wine in the room and a bit of a rest before eating again at the hotel restaurant. There  SIM in my phone which had worked all day suddenly decided to give up the ghost just when I needed it most to call Raphael the taxi man. In the end I had to asked the lady attendant who took the toilet entry fee if she had a phone and she kindly called him for me. Twenty minutes later we were picked up and dropped outside our hotel.
We had a glass of wine in the room and a bit of a rest before eating again at the hotel restaurant. There aren't many places to eat nearby and in any event the food at the hotel is very good.
We were the only diners and enjoyed an exceptionally good meal. I asked he waitress to thank the chef and he came out to chat to us so I could thank him personally.