going upriver

Stage 3 of the Spiritual Variant involves travelling by boat from Vila Nova de Arousa to Pontecesures, and a walk of about 2 miles to Padron. This represents the journey (Translatio) taken by the boat bringing the body of St James from Palestine to Padron in the 1st century AD. The boat was said to have been guided by an angel and moored at a stone which can still be seen today beneath the altar of the Church of St James of Padron (see extra).

Our boat was a little different, but the journey was wonderful. The first delight was seeing dolphins as we left the harbour. We had a tour of the extensive offshore mussel fields (not sure what this had to do with St James) and a glass of white wine before turning into the river Ulla and following the 18 stone crosses (cruceiros) along the shore. The captain had been playing Galician music for most of the journey, but oddly, as we neared Pontecesuras, he put on the "Titanic" theme and then, as we docked, the Portuguese national anthem (most if the passengers were Portuguese).

The walk to Padron was short and the sun was very hot. We checked into our albergue, showered and went out to explore Padron - the Church, as mentioned above, and a lovely little Botanic Garden. Dinner at a cafe by the river and a walk up to the convent. I was disappointed not to be able to try the famous Padron peppers ("some are hot and some are not") as they are just out of season.

Feeling quite excited now about the last day of our walk to Santiago tomorrow! We have walked 402 miles so far :-)