Gisborne

It’s a relief to wake up and see land today. As we sail into Gisborne, streamers of clouds float dreamily along the coastal hills, and there are even signs of sunlight breaking through the higher cloud cover. 

This is our only tendered port, and the journey from our anchorage to shore is quite exciting, the lifeboat/tender tolling drunkenly until we reach the shallows of the harbour. 

Having missed out Marlborough wine tasting at Picton, today’s a second chance, and we head off for two local wineries, first enduring an extensive tour of absolutely everything this little town has to offer.  I must admit to rapidly losing interest in the workings of kiwi farms - the fruit that is, not the bird - but it’s an impressively fertile region seemingly capable of growing almost anything. And ironic considering it’s situated on Poverty Bay! 

We’re both pleased that these are just wine tastings rather than vineyard tours. It’s not that we’re not interested in viniculture, it’s just there are only so many variations in the niceties of modern wine making that we can endure as pundits. First we visit Bushmere, then Matawhero, both charming boutique set-ups. Bushmere has more of a family feel about it, several relatives involved, and there is a real sense of passion from the owner. And as well as wine, we are presented with impressive tasting platters to share - after all, it must be at least two hours since we last ate! In both places, the tastings are informative, but I find myself increasingly irritated by the inability of many of the group to listen, and we’re both quite embarrassed by their rudeness. We, however, are the attentive class stars, and are rewarded by a secret visit to the old cellar after the rest of the group have left! 

Before returning to the ship, we are taken to the viewpoint at Kaiti Hill. All day, the weather has been changeable and we arrive to a view obscured by rain, which within minutes clears to reveal the gorgeous turquoise of the sea. 

Our return to ship is delayed by a halt to all harbour movements as a timber transporter is escorted in, giving us the opportunity to have a quiet drink at the local fishing club overlooking the marina - and the novelty of actually paying for it! 

Eventually, traffic’s moving once more, so it’s back to the ship via tender and a sail out of Gisborne with the early evening sunshine illuminating the rocky headland of Tuahini Point and its derelict lighthouse.