Surf

"It's a place where you find yourself and lose yourself"

Got to go surfing today, small but perfectly formed waves at Lowestoft. Had a great couple of hours thanks to a call from Mick this morning. Haven't been for a couple of months which as Vic will testify makes me a little tetchy. Still had winter wax on the board!

This is a guy who I have seen on and off in the waves for the past decade or so. Nice 3ft sets coming through and nice and warm.

It is a spiritual thing and all the stereotypical ideas about surfing are true. I do it because the world does melt away when you pick up on a wave, you are fully focussed on that one event being pushed and one-with Mother Nature, dropping down a clean face of a wave, putting in a bottom turn and trimming the board into the right spot to cruise the line. But I mainly do it to spend time with my friends and how much fun it is.

Also got a bit of hassle from a seal, sat with us out back about 6ft away snorted a bit and left.

Darren