Diary of an Edinburgher

By LadyMarchmont

Meknes to Volubilis

Another action packed day! Taxi to the 'granaries' for a look around the extensive buildings (only some vaults have been restored) that used to house about 12,000 horses. Then we walked along by the city wall to the square, where we had a coffee and met up with Abdou again. Not quite as much walking as yesterday, thankfully.

The square was lined with shops selling pottery - colourful plates and of course, tagines. More carpets and rugs too. We passed on another mausoleum, having seen the most spectacular one yesterday, I think, and so had an extra sit down and lovely coffee to await the others in the shade.

Abdou led us through the Medina for our treat - camel burgers for lunch! What an experience that was. Not the burger, which was nice, but sitting squashed in the smallest restaurant ever - just room for a table, and watching the cook at work. He had a teeny tiny 'kitchen' - he could barely turn around. At the street side was a teeny tiny barbecue which was billowing out smoke, which eventually filled the 'restaurant' and we all had to move outside. He had a teeny tiny bench to cut the tomatoes on. He was going flat out, but still we had a long wait. There seems to be a mix up with the 'old time' and the 'new time' in Morocco.

We popped into another of Abdou's friends/relatives (we tease him about this, but they're not) who has a shop making and selling 'metal Damasquine' - ironwork decorated with beaten silver thread. We also saw the men sewing intricate gold patterns in silk on womens' robes.

Now we collected our comfy, air conditioned tour minibus and driver, Jamal. Half an hour later, we arrived at Volubilus. This is an vast site of Roman ruins dating from the 2nd and 3rd century AD. Only the centre of the city has been excavated.

I'm afraid, by this time, I was flagging. It must have been in the high 30s, no shelter, no wind. I had my scarf around my head to cover my ears, and my cap on top to shade my face, which is already sunburned (who goes on holiday to North Africa and forgets to bring sunscreen?). Not a pretty sight. So half way round, JR and I gave up, and sat under some pillars in the shade while I waited patiently for the storks, nesting on one of the pillars, to make a move. Eventually one flew off and I almost got a nice sharp shot.

An hour's drive to Fez, past fertile rolling hills with a variety of crops and olive groves and the occasional person hand ploughing with a donkey. A quick wash and brush up and out for dinner. Another friend of Abdou's outside the city.

And what a treat it was. We drove up the narrow streets as far as possible, then set off walking at a brisk pace, up the hill through narrow winding lanes teeming with people and I was fair puggled by the time we eventually reached the house. It was highly decorated with every surface ornately tiled. The dining room on the second floor had the most ornate ceiling ever. Apart from the King's mausoleum the other day, of course.

First we had bread and olives, then an array of tapas came out - all very tasty. Then we had 'pastilla' a traditional dish of chicken and spices in pastry. With icing sugar as an optional extra. They seem to add sugar to everything! Fruit salad to finish. And a proper one. Last night Hazel ordered 'fruits' for dessert and was presented with an orange and a banana!

Some of the young ones have gone out with Abdou to a bar for music and dancing, but the old codgers are too tired. Wifi NOT working.

Here he is - The lovely Abdou!

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